Stand-up double collar



May 5, 1931.Y H. MUELLER ET AL STAND-UP DQUBLE COLLAR Filed MarchV 11. 1929 Patented May 5, 1931 UNIT-ED STATES PATENT OFFICE HUGO MUELLER, F MANNHEIM, AND HANS BERTELSMANN, OF BIELEFELD,

GERMANY STAND-UP DOUBLE COLLAR Application led March 11, 1929, Serial No. 346,155, and in Germany February 25, 1928.

The present invention relates to improvements in starched stand-up, double collars, and the object of the invention is to facilitate the sliding of the tie.

The ordinary starched stand-up, double collars are invariably associated with the disadvantage that the tie jambs between the outer and inner collar members when itis attempted to cause it to slip. Various experiments have been made in order to overcome this disadvantage. Thus, for example, collars have been proposed `in which a reinforcement or cord is inserted between the outer and inner members and serves as a stop. Collars have also been proposed in which recesses are stamped in the inner member in order to afford the tie the possibility of yielding. In both cases'the desiredeffect 1s not completely obtained.

In addition, the disadvantages which arise from the increased difliculty in manufacture of the collar and from the poorer it are so great that the introduction into ractice could scarcely be undertaken. oreover, both the recesses and the stops afford new clamping pointsin the collar. Further, collars are known in which the outer member is only loosely stitched to the inner member and must be removed each time the collar is 3o washed, so that a practically soft outer member facilitates the slip of the tie. lars cannot be used in ractice as, on the one hand, they are not su ciently resistant and, on the other hand, involve too much work in the wash.

In order to obtain this facile slip of the tie and thus preserve the collar and tie without involving the above described disadvantages, the collar according to the present invention is so constructed that the inner collar Amember consists of a woven material which, compared with the outer member, takes up onl ve little starch and thus remains flexible a er the ordinary starching.

The use of a dense weave is known in soft collars, and in such collars serves to impart to the soft collar member a greater similarity to a starched collar. In contradistinction thereto, it is entirely unknown to use inv Such col-g weaves which are scarcely capable of taking up starch as, in general, considerable value is attached to the stiffness of the starched collar. Even when, with customary collars, differences in the capacity for taking up starch are known, these differences never obtain the extent which is necessary according to the present invention in order to secure the desired result. The average percentage increase in weight in the woven layers of the inner and outer collar members gives a measure of the difference between thedensity and the capacity for taking up starch of the weaves of said collar members.; whereas with collars of ordinary manufacture, the difference between the average capacity for taking up starch of the outer and inner members does not exceed 15% on one -side or the other according to the invention, with difference of from 70 or preferably 300 to 500% as requisite, and the capacity for taking up starch of the weave of the outer collar must be much greater than that of the inner collar.

Two embodiments of the invention are illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawing in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a portion of a collar according to this invention, and

Fig. 2vis a similar view of a modication.

In Fig. 1, a is the inside or neck portion of the collar, and b the outside or visible portion. While the saidoutside portion b is made of materials such as generally employed for starched collars, according to the present invention the inside portion a is, for the purpose mentioned, made from materials which take up so little starch as to be practically negligible. Such materials are particularly dense fabrics which, on account of their want of porosity, leave no room for starch.

The principal feature of the invention is the difference between the fabrics employed for the outside and inside of the collar.

During starchng and smoothing, the collar may then be handled in the same fashion as an ordinary starched collar. It is starched and ironed all over but becomes stiff` in the outside portion b only on account of the extremely slight starch absorption of the inside collar portion a referred to above, said inside portion remaining quite flexible and soft. As a result the collar has the appear ance, it and seating of an ordinary starched stand-up double collar, While the inside portion of the collar yields, due to its softness, to the pressure of the tightened tie and enables the latter to be drawn through the collar Without effort. At the same time, the collar is spared materially and the life of the tie lengthened; furthermore, movement of the Wearers head is rendered more comfortable.

Since, with ordinary starched stand-up double collars, the sticking occurs mainly in the rear portion of the collar, it is possible at the other parts of the inside portion of the collar to provide reinforcements of fabrics which are capable of absorbing starch, Without impairing the effect achieved by the present invention. The inside portion of the collar then becomes stiff also at the reinforced parts. In this case, it is possible to obtain the desired efect even with collars of considerable depth without spoiling the fit and seating of the comparatively soft inside of the collar. In Fig. 2, for example, a reinforced portion of the inside of the collar is indicated by the reference letter c.

What we claim is:

A stiffened turned-over collar, comprising an inner multi-ply neck embracing portion of dense fabric; each ply being substantially indifferent to absorption of starch; an outer multi-ply collar portion of porous fabric with its plies capable of free absorption of a large amount of starch; said neck embracing portion being freely yieldable and the outer collar portion rigid; and reinforcement marginally of the inner neck embracing portion.

In testimony whereof we affix our signatures.

HUGO MLLER. HANS BERTELSMANN. 

